Silk pressing fine textures or clients with fine curls can be an easy task when appointment time is concerned. But avoiding heat damage during the thermal styling process is more of a challenge, especially since clients with fine hair textures are more fragile and susceptible to damage than medium and coarse textures. So, how do you safely silk press fine curls with zero heat damage?
With superior thermal protection from our new Design Essentials Natural Agave & Lavender Weightless Thermal Protectant Serum, a lightweight serum that seals moisture into the hair cuticle to protect strands from thermal damage without weighing down fine to normal hair.
Keep reading to learn more about the characteristics of fine hair and how to silk press your client’s fine curls without compromising their hairs integrity.
The Characteristics of Fine Hair
- Fine hair is small in diameter and only contains two of the three structures that make up the hair shaft; the outer cuticle layer and the middle cortex layer. Fine hair generally lacks the medulla, the innermost layer that is found in medium and coarse textures.
- It’s easier to process, very fragile, and prone to breakage.
- Lacks volume and is resistant to holding styles.
- Contains less protein than other textures.
- Easily weighed down with heavy products, causing the hair to look oily or stringy.
- Fine hair is often confused with thin hair, but thin hair describes how many hairs there are on a person’s head (also known as hair density). And just because hair is fine, that doesn’t mean it’s thin. For example, you can have fine hair, but thick density.
Now, let’s get into how to properly prep and protect your client’s fine curls before silk pressing.
Step 1: Your Client Must Start With A Clean Canvas
Unfortunately, many salon professionals have witnessed a silk press (gone awry) that involved the smell of burning hair or excessive smoke in the air. This is what happens when the client’s hair isn’t properly cleansed (or too much product was used). That said, it’s extremely important to properly clarify and cleanse your client’s hair prior to thermal styling to avoid heat damage. Shampoo at least twice with a gentle sulfate-free moisturizing shampoo to rid the hair of all dirt, oil, and impurities while simultaneously restoring moisture balance. We suggest getting the job done with Design Essentials Natural Agave & Lavender Sulfate-Free Moisturizing Hair Bath.
Step 2: Infuse Moisture Into the Hair Shaft With Steam
When silk pressing your client’s fine curls, properly moisturized hair is another necessity to preventing heat damage, swelling at the roots, and reversion. Deeply penetrate the hair shaft with a moisturizing conditioning treatment that will strengthen, soften, seal, and smooth the hair cuticle like our Design Essentials Natural Agave & Lavender Moisturizing and Detangling Conditioner.
For maximum penetration, comb conditioner from roots to ends then steam treat your client’s fine curls under a hair steamer for up to 15 minutes. The moist heat from the steamer will lift the hair cuticle and draw moisture into the hair shaft for better hydration and increased conditioner penetration. If you don’t have a steamer in your salon space don’t worry, you can get similar results using a hooded dryer and processing cap.
Step 3: Prime & Protect Fine Curls Before Blow-Drying
Now that your client’s hair has been properly cleansed and moisturized, it’s time to protect their strands prior to blow-drying using Design Essentials Natural Agave & Lavender Blow-Dry & Styling Primer to smooth away signs of damage, mend split ends, and minimize breakage.
If your client has easy-to-detangle curls or very fine hair you may opt to not use the Agave & Lavender Blow-Dry & Styling Primer. Instead proceed to the next step. Otherwise, shake product to activate ingredients then distribute evenly throughout damp hair. Do not overuse primer as it contains oils and can weigh down your client’s fine hair.
For maximum smoothness, blow-dry using a concentrator attachment on the lowest heat setting and hold the blow-dyer 4 to 6 inches away from the hair to avoid depleting moisture.
Step 4: Use Design Essentials Natural Agave & Lavender Weightless Thermal Protectant Serum
Because we already know that fine hair is prone to breakage, you MUST ALWAYS use a thermal heat protectant when silk pressing fine curls. Stylists love the new Design Essentials Natural Agave & Lavender Weightless Thermal Protectant Serum because it provides a lightweight silky-smooth finish that seals in moisture and protects your client’s natural curl pattern from thermal damage; all while leaving them with a long-lasting silk press full of body and high-gloss shine.
Place a few small drops into palms and emulsify. Massage through the scalp, then rub palms down the mid-shaft to the ends of the hair to ensure proper protection throughout the entire head. Do not overuse the serum or else you risk weighing down your client’s fine hair. Proceed to flat-iron 1-inch sections at 400 degrees (maximum to avoid heat damage). Use a fine-tooth comb to guide strands through the thermal tool and only pass the flat-iron through each section once.
Once finished, your client’s fine hair should look and feel beautifully sleek without any signs of damage. Be sure to give them at-home tips on how to upkeep their new silky do’ with these 5 Maintenance Tips On How To Make Your Silk Press Last.
Don’t forget to tag us on Instagram with your silk press results! Tag @designessentials and use the hashtag #designessentials so Team DE can see your tresses!